The huge riveted magnet board made that you see in the picture was the center of attraction of my workplace makeover. I will now show you the way to make this magnet board. I will demonstrate the steps to construct a studded mirror next week.
At first, I intended to use magnetic paint for painting a piece of plywood and then wrap it with nice wallpaper. However, after reading the different magnetic paint reviews given at Lowes.com, I decided otherwise. It seems that it takes no less than six coatings to attain some measure of magnetism. A sheet of wallpaper above the weak magnetic paint was not viable.
Then I caught the glimpse of Restoration Hardware’s Aviator Collection based on airplanes used in the Second World War. Being a huge admirer of the Second World War airplanes, I just loved the furniture instantly, particularly the Aviator Wing Desk and Spitfire Chair. All the things are dressed in leather, metal, and loads of rivets like the classic airplanes.
By now, I had an industrial idea that can go with the table legs made of galvanized steel and galvanized bins and planters. In addition, I was aware of the sheet metal that Lowe sold, so it turned out to be the best choice for my workplace. Now, what I required were my brother’s assistance and the nail gun.
How to build the riveted metal wall art magnet, board
- One 4 × 8 foot piece of plywood cut into 3 × 6 feet
- Three 24 × 36 inch plated steel sheets
- Four 30 bunches of 5mm (3/16 inch) aluminum washers
- Two 50 bunches of 5mm(3/16 inch) aluminum rivets
- 1 × 2 timber: two pieces of 66 inches, two pieces of 33 inches, one piece of 30 inches and one scrap piece of one foot at least
- Mineral spirits
- 3/4 inch brad nails (used for nail gun optionally)
- Wood glue
- Stops Rust translucent enamel spray from Rust-Oleum
- Paper towels and shop rag
- Drywall anchors (molly bolts) and screws
- Two big sized D-ring hangers
- Drywall T-square
- Pop-rivet tool
- Minimum two 2-inch spring clamps
- 3/16 inch (5mm) drill bit and drill
- Nail gun or hammer
- Drop cloth
1. At first, underpin the plywood along with a frame measuring 1 × 2s. Adding the frame will provide sufficient thickness and rigidity for anchoring the picture hangers. Now, arrange the frame, as you can see in the picture. For this, position two side pieces, 1- ½ inches away from the rim firstly, then put the bottom and top pieces, again 1-1/2 inches away from the rim, and then place the middle piece.
Notes: Troy did the above-mentioned step last. However, he decided that doing it first will be easier. He utilized 1×4s on the edges as this is what I had readily available, but even 1×2s are adequate.
2. Now, on the reverse of one piece apply wood glue and compress it down. Use a nail gun or hammer one nail in all the ends of the piece. Repeat these steps for all five pieces. TURN over the whole plywood/frame and then hammer the nails in every few inches.
3. Put down three sheets of steel over the plywood, adjacent to each other as shown in the image. After this, gauge the spacing of holes and then mark it with a pencil. Here, we have put the rivets half-inch away from the exterior edging of all the sheets.
- Top and bottom: Eight rivets at a gap of 3-1/4 inches.
- Sides: Eleven rivets at a gap of 3-1/2 inches.
- Total for all the sheets: Thirty-four rivets.
- Warning: Mark only the place where you will drill, as the pencil marks will not go away.
4. Next, you will start with making a hole and riveting a corner of all the sheets as you can see in the picture. Therefore, drill a hole into the plywood and the metal at the edge of the first sheet. Then you can skip stepping number 5. After this, reiterate the steps for all the corners one by one. Once, you have all the corners riveted in the right place you can replicate the process for the two remaining sheets.
Important: In case, you use a sawhorse as a façade then fasten a piece of timber beneath all the holes, which you drill. If you work on the ground, then just position the piece of timber underneath whenever you drill. In this way, you can prevent the plywood from coming out and chipping on the back.
5. Move away from the piece of timber and then put it in a rivet inside the drilled hole. Now, clutch a washer beneath the plywood at the time of using the riveting equipment for fastening the rivet incorrect position. This washer will provide a firm surface for anchoring the rivet. Get back to step four and then repeat it for all the corners.
Here is a video, where Troy is binding one rivet into the hole, which he had drilled in the metal sheet. You can try doing this many times. I actually did this about four times and left the rest for Troy. This board was the most wanted part of the room, so trying this was worth it.
6. Once, all the corners are fastened down you can start drilling the leftover holes on all the sides and then bind the rivets as the picture shows.
Tip: For saving time and for ensuring that the rivets line up, you can use drywall T-square for marking the placement of rivets on the opposite sides.
7. Then just, clean up the grease from the sheet using a rag and mineral spirits. Position the magnet board above a drop cloth and spray two coatings of Stops Rust Rust-Oleum translucent enamel as seen in the picture. Follow the directions given on the enamel can and then leave it to dry for the night.
Note: Grease protects the steel sheet from corrosion, but it also leaves behind some remains on your hands as well as all the things that it touches. This is the reason why we took away the leftover grease and then sprayed the pain for protecting the sheet metal.
8. Turn over the magnet board and drill holes. After this, fix the D-ring close to the top of 1 × 2 onto the sides. (I apologize that it forgot to capture an image of D-ring hangers fixed at the reverse side of the magnet board-and moving it is also very difficult.) The board is very heavy and for hanging it onto the wall, you will need screws fastened to a stud, or else you can use molly bolts. You can also use a ruler or level to ensure that the screws are in a straight line and the board hung straight.
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